Let’s talk about that four letter word…

Lets talk about that four letter word!

ALTS!! OK, it’s alterations but ’11 letter word’ doesn’t sound as dramatic…

However 11 letters are more than 4,  which is very appropriate as bridal alterations are very much MORE. They take more skill ,more time, more patience,  more organisation,  more communication and more effort.

WHO NEEDS ALTS!

As a member of the bridal party whether you are the Bride, Groom, Mum, Dad, flower girl,  page, Grooms Man, Brides Maid its probably inevitable that you will need alterations.

WHY? SURELY WE ORDERED THE RIGHT SIZE?

Clothing is made to standard sizes (and even the ‘standards’ are not standard) so as a bride, your boutique will choose for you the closest size. We take into account things like whether the waist is a close match but the bust is the next size up,  but if the dress has a corset back then probably the size down for the bust will be ok. If it’s a zip or buttons, then for safety they will accommodate the bust, which means the waist will be big. Its inevitably easier to take in than let out! Hips… if it’s a full ball gown then sometimes you can accommodate the size down on the hip if the waist is a size smaller.

As you can see its a complex process, and often the shop might just for safety go for the size that fits your largest measurement,  remember previous point, easier to take in, than let out.

THEY ORDERED IT BIG TO RIP ME OFF!

This often causes that age old myth we see in groups online – “they ordered me too big, so they could whack me with extra costs” – when actually what they did was order safely to prevent alts that would be more difficult for them and therefore more costly to you.

Letting out is always more expensive,  as there are often problems to overcome: lack of beading/ lace etc. in the seam allowance which then has to be added; carefully steaming out stitch holes in plain fabric; adding panels; matching fabric. Its always harder than taking in.

HOW MUCH WILL IT BE ?

The average UK bridal gown alterations bill is £450. This figure comes from a huge survey of 500 bridal alterations specialist seamstresses from across the UK, with a variety of home workers and premises-based,  individual workers or boutique in-house.

Remember the 11-letter word? Very apt as the average time taken on alts is 11 hours work to perfectly fit, sew, and steam a dress,  including all the communications, fittings,  pinning/ sewing, pressing/ steaming and collection. Furthermore, recent fashions have dictated that bridal gowns are now far more complicated than they were five or ten years ago. This involves a lot more work than would previously have been the case. The average hourly rate is £41. This covers rent, rates (or percentage of your home costs), insurance,  electricity,  machinery servicing,  staffing,  materials and so on.

Out of that, after business costs are deducted, your seamstress is likely to earn an hourly rate of £15 to £25. For most seamstresses, a commercially viable rate would actually be £45 to £75 per hour. Although many do charge that, you can see there are many in the industry undercharging, too nervous to ask for a fair rate, for fear of backlash, accusations of ripping off or overcharging etc.)

AVERAGE WORK ?

So, look at that average of £41.

Car service: average of £80 to 100 per hour.

Washing machine repair: average of £60 to 80 per hour

Gardener: average of £40 to 75 per hour.

The truth is that sewing at a professional skilled level is still hideously under-recognised. It’s historically seem as ‘women’s work’, with all the baggage and negativity (as well as financial limitations) that pejorative phrase suggests. We should all be actively supporting seamstresses to change this. We have all genders working in this skilled area and all deserve a wage appropriate for a skilled professional.

THATS MORE THAN I PAID FOR THE DRESS!

Unfortunately we hear this a lot!

With the market totally flooded with Far East fast fashion produced in tough conditions,  you will find that you can buy a dress for half the price of your alterations.

This is because, in the UK, we have a high cost of living and I’m sure you will agree that it should be fair to pay your skilled seamstresses (for a job you are unable to do yourself,  as you do not have the skill, experience or training) a fair wage. After all, you would not fix your car, repair your washing machine or even attempt to maintain your garden without the appropriate training, would you?

HOW DO I PLAN FOR THIS EXPENSE?

I always advise that you should budget at least £450 for alts on bridal, and £75 on maids. It may be more,  it may be less. But be prepared.

And if you are 5ft 8 and a perfect size chart fit, try not to feel too smug… you will still need your dress steaming😗)

Have a thought for the rest of us…

HOW DO I CHOOSE A SEAMSTRESS?

Ask for recommendations, look at reviews and pick somebody you trust and who you feel you can build a good relationship with. If you use Facebook, this is a really good group to find a reputable seamstress:

https://www.facebook.com/share/g/SDQrWSBim3YGQJUR

CREDIT WHERE CREDIT’S DUE

If you have had your wedding between 2.10.23 and 30.9.24 and your bridal seamstress or tailor was amazing please nominate them in The Wedding Industry Awards.

https://www.the-wedding-industry-awards.co.uk/nominate

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